Soul Surfer

For those of you who have ever been interested in any of the following subjects:
Surfing, sharks, shark attacks, Christianity, or ‘based on a true story’ movies, you would be hip to this post title. I remember when thirteen year old Bethany Hamilton lost her left arm at the shoulder to a BIG shark. After seeing the movie with aforementioned name, I also learned that she was a surfing prodigy at the time, sponsored by Ripcurl. She also had an honest faith in her god, and between the time of the attack and her getting to a hospital, she lost sixty percent of her blood. She lived (obviously). She learned how to surf again. She went on, after some self-discovery journeys, to do some very cool stuff, and to win a nationalsurfing championship. I’m pretty sure this is also the title of Bethanys book. But at least hunt the movie down. As cheezey as it may first appear, remember, this movie is pretty much a dramatized doco/autobiography, without the narrated voiceovers. It will suck you in if you already know any of her story.
I’m writing this offline (no Optus coverage down here), so I don’t have any Interweb links embedded. You’ll have to IMDB it or Google it. Or rent it or maybe even ‘buy’ it .?.? Strange concept.
If it was a fictional piece of god botherer propaganda, I would probably laughed my way through this. But this is a true story. Bethany Hamilton impresses me with her strength of will and the way she draws strength from her faith.
All eyes back to me now. This is my frikkin wave!
The review you just read should in no way imply that I am getting all  religious and stuff. Whilst I respect that many people draw strength from a faith in a god, I tend to think more in human spirit/soul terms. *Begin pointless manifesto*
There is no ‘God’ in terms of ‘the creator and all powerful’ sense. The ‘God’ concept, in my grossly uneducated opinion, was created by ‘men’ in order to instill a fearful respect for authority in the masses. Firstly a fearful respect for those high in religious ranks, and as a follow on over centuries, whether religious or not, most of us have some strange inbred need to be looking up to some higher power for guidance and salvation. Whether it be a god or a manager. The concept that we fellow humans are all equal, and that no other person, or group of persons has a right to restrict our freedom, has been lost.
Some may say, “but without order, we would have anarchy”. I say the term anarchy was born from the ‘class’ and ‘order’ systems being jammed down peoples’ throats.
‘Anarchy’ is not what happens when we become ‘free’ of ‘order’. We get enlightened to the beauty of just knowing that we can all just ‘be’ without some government policy telling us we can’t ‘be’ because we filled in the wrong permit application.

Oh just shutup Brad.
OK, so I was a little drunk last night (it’s now Saturday arvo). I had also been up since 06:30, mostly driving until 23:30 (11:30pm). So I can also blame sleep deprivation, and the two and a half Coopers Sparkling Ale stubbies between midnight and 3:30am when I wound down enough to sleep. Today (Sat.) has been a slow day. Listening to music & resting. I wanted to go to Cooktown, but I am really shagged. I’ll go up on Monday though, and do a shop for my mate up there. I need to organise moving too.
I cleaned both busses inside, and washed the big bus. Now I’m washing clothes so I can head to Norms place tonight, more or less permanent. I am hoping this will work out well for us.


One thought on “Soul Surfer

  1. morning damn aussie…

    “faith” is a individual term..I’m not religious in the least..
    but I think personal/and earth
    karma are real….

    thats what I’m working with anyway..

    oh yeah..missed a spot on that last bus…

    hope it works out at the new patch brad….be well….

    love ya bro…Bob…


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